Value Local of Javanese Kebaya

Introduction

Kebaya is the traditional dress culture of Javanese, Sundanese and Balinese people which used as one of identity of Indonesian people. Kebaya is made from sheer material such as silk, thin cotton or semi-transparent nylon or polyester, adorned with brocade or floral pattern embroidery. it usually wear with a sarong or batik kain panjang, or other traditional woven garment such as ikat, songket with a colorful motif.

Javanese kebaya collection and each usage varies depending on the motif as well as many sequins. Javanese kebaya has experienced many shifts, but they still feel the traditional concept. Javanese Kebaya using traditional batik cloth to the bottom. But with the progress of time can be replaced batik cloth with another cloth that is more modern and less visible ethnic.

Javanese kebaya consists of the blouse (kebaya) of cotton , silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by a central brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the blouse meet. Kerongsang brooch often made from gold jewelry and considered as the sign of social status of aristocracy, wealth and nobility, however for commoners and peasant women, simple and plain kebaya often only fastened with modest safety pin (peniti).

The Definition of Kebaya

The meaning of the word Kebaya is inspired from Arab region clothing, the Arabic word abaya which means clothing. Kebaya is the national costume of Indonesia, although it is more accurately endemic to the Javanese, Sundanese and Balinese peoples. Since Java is the center of Indonesian politics since colonial era, as well as the majority of Indonesian population, it is only natural that the folk costume from Java are elevated into national status.

Kebaya is a very old clothes in the presence of Indonesian. It is also one of the many historic relics of our ancestors in Indonesia in the past. The kebaya is also a traditional clothing including fancy of so many clothes that exist in this world.  It is made from sheer material such as silk, thin cotton or semi-transparent nylon or polyester, adorned with brocade or floral pattern embroidery. Kebaya usually wear with a sarong or batik kain panjang, or other traditional woven garment such as ikat, songket with a colorful motif.

Kebaya as the national costume of Indonesian women were often featured by Indonesian first ladies. The wives of Sukarno, Indonesian first president; Fatmawati Sukarno and Dewi Sukarno were known to wearing kebaya daily. Kebaya is usually worn during official national events by Indonesian first lady, wifes of Indonesian diplomats, and Indonesian ladies.

During Indonesia's Proclamation of Independence, Dutch-educated activist SK Trimurti- wore kebaya cementing it as the female dress of Nationalism.
In Japanese internment camps during the Second World War, Indonesian female prisoners refused to wear the Western dress allocated them and instead wore kebaya as a display of Nationalist and racial solidarity separate from fellow Chinese, Europeans and Eurasian inmates.

The Suharto-era bureaucrat wives' social organisation Dharma Wanita wears a uniform of gold kebaya, with a red sash (selendang) and stamped batik pattern on the kain unique to Dharma Wanita. The late Indonesian first lady and also a minor aristocrat Tien Suharto was a prominent advocate of the kebaya. Former President Megawati Sukarnoputri is a public champion of kebaya and wears fine red kebaya whenever possible in public forums and 2009 Presidential election debates.

1.     The History of Kebaya

The earliest form of Kebaya originates in the court of the Javanese Majapahit Kingdom as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, torso wrap of the aristocratic women to be more modest and acceptable to the newly adopted Islam religion. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.

The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was noted by the Portuguese when they landed in Indonesia. Kebaya is associated with a type of blouse worn by Indonesian women in 15th or 16th century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were considered as a sacred clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and minor nobility, in an era when peasant men and many women walked publicly bare-chested.

Slowly it naturally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao. Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes over the torso wrap kemben, the kain (and unstitched wrap fabric several metres long erroneously termed 'sarong in English it is stitched to form a tube, like a Western dress) After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments have become highly localised expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring traditions.

2.     Kinds of Kebaya

1. 1.Kebaya Kartini

 

Women's kebaya nigrat used in the RA Kartini. Similar to the kebaya encim. but there are differences in the chest, pelvis close long kebaya, the fold-collar forming vertical lines. The 21st of April is celebrated in Indonesia as National Kartini Day where Raden Ajeng Kartini, the female suffragist and education advocate is remembered by schoolgirls wearing traditional dress according to their region.

2.       Kebaya Encim 

Kebaya has also been popular among women of China named kebaya encim. It is  the combination of clothing from china Shanghai with typical Malay kebaya. Design of the Kebaya encim is so simple with shorter pieces and usually made from cotton, with embroidered collar and v along the collar to bottom.

3.       Javanese kebaya

It consists of the blouse (kebaya) of cotton , silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by a central brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the blouse meet. Kebaya jawa is a simple model with v neckline, long to cover hips, transparent material made ​​of patterned fabric.

4.       Balinese kebaya

 

Balinese kebaya actually similar with the Javanese kebaya but there is a diference in hallmark of extra obi is wrapped at the waist. Obi become the characteristic of the bali kebaya which distinguish with others type of kebaya. Materials in bali kebaya are usually made ​​of brocade or cotton. During Balinese traditional ceremonies, Balinese women wore colorful Balinese style kebaya with songket Bali.

5.       Kebaya modern

Kebaya modern is a combination of traditional elements with the modern elements. Innovations of modern kebaya such as clasps, zippers and buttons- zippers being a much appreciated addition for ladies' requiring the bathroom, without requiring being literally unwrapped by a helper- to the extent the true kain is near unanimously rejected.

Varieties

The varieties of kebaya are two main varieties. The blouse, known as baju kebaya may be of two main form: the semi-transparent straighter cut blouse of the Java, Bali and the more tightly tailored Sunda kebaya and the more Islamic compatible, plainer baju kurung is a loose-fitting, knee-length long-sleeved blouse worn in the more adherent Muslim areas- including former Kingdom of Johor-Riau (now Malaysia), Sumatra and parts of coastal Java.

In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from plain stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis embroidered silk with gold thread. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis- an elaborate gold-thread embroidered ikat with small mica discs. Sumatera, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.

Modern usage and innovations

Apart from traditional kebaya, fashion designers are looking into ways of modifying the design and making kebaya a more fashionable outfit. Casual designed kebaya can even be worn with jeans or skirts. For weddings or formal events, many designers are exploring other types of fine fabrics like laces to create a bridal kebaya. It also worn by Indonesian ladies for attending traditional ceremonies and wedding

Modern-day kebaya now incorporate modern Western tailoring innovations such as clasps, zippers and buttons- zippers being a much appreciated addition for ladies' requiring the bathroom, without requiring being literally unwrapped by a helper- to the extent the true kain is near unanimously rejected. Other modern innovations have included the blouse baju kebaya worn without the restrictive kemben, and eve the kebaya blouse worn with slacks or made of the fabric usually for the kain panjang.

The female uniform of Garuda Indonesia flight attendants is more authentic modern interpretations, the kebaya is designed in simple yet classic kartini style kebaya derived from 19th century kebaya of Javanese noblewomen. The kebaya made from fire-proof cotton-polyester fabrics, with batik sarongs in parang or lereng gondosuli motif, which also incorporate garuda's wing motif and small dots represent jasmine.

source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kebaya